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Printed Parts

Warning

This is NOT a VORON Design project, we strongly recommend that you run a profile that is specific to BoxTurtle. Voron parts profiles are not recommended for BoxTurtle printed parts, as the tolerance expectations are different.

Specifically, make sure you are tuning for skew and filament shrinkage. An excellent tool for this is Vector3D's Califlower Mk2 (yes, it's worth the $14). Do this before you print 1.5-2kg worth of filament for BoxTurtle parts!

If you purchased a kit, all the parts you need to print are located in the Base_Build folder under STLs on this repository. There is also a web-based configurator available for easy identification and download of what STLs to print outside a base kit build.

All parts are pre-oriented for printing and have all required support pre-built into the STLs. OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio ( and possible others) may give warnings about certain parts having 'floating cantilevers', these are breakaway support structures and these errors can safely be ignored.

If you have an LDO BoxTurtle kit, these are the options to pick on the web-based configurator:

  • Would you like normal or monolithic skirts? - your choice. If you can fit monolithic on your printer, it has a more unified look vs the split parts. We recommend a 350mm minimum size bed for this, but you may be able to get them to squeak in on a ~300-305mm plate.
  • Would you prefer a hub or pass through skirts? - Hub is our recommended default choice.
  • Are you using printed corners or extrusion corners? - Printed corners
  • LED corners or plain? - Plain
  • Are you using D2F or D2HW style switches? - D2HW
  • Would you like to print the Hardware or No-Hardware version of the trays? - Choose No Hardware if you have a minimum 235x235mm bed. Some Ender-style printers have a maximum 220x220mm printable volume, and so the 'bars' that slot into the extrusion require hardware (heat sets/screws) to attach to the tray.
  • What style tray would you like to print? Plain, Inlay, Multicolor, or Desiccant? - Again, a bit of personal choice. Plain would be the base option, but there's no reason you couldn't print the others. An enclosure is in the works so if you wanted to future-proof for that, desiccant trays are available (in two sizes).
  • Would you like to print a TurtleNeck buffer? - Yes

If all of the above sounds a bit overwhelming, you can print all the parts in LDO_BoxTurtle_Kit_STLs.zip, and they will be the right ones to build a functioning BoxTurtle.

For the 'No Hardware' trays, you may wish to enable 'Thick bridges' or use a 0.25mm first layer height, as otherwise the built-in supports may generate 0.4mm gap between the support and the printed part. The N20 motor mounts may also benefit from an 0.25mm first layer height.

There is a calibration print that you may like to print before getting started here.

How to create a meshed look on the skirts

There are a few ways to create a 'meshed' look on the hexes on the skirts, using your slicer.

  • On the print settings profile, set top and bottom layers to 0. Adjust infill pattern, density and angle to suit your preference.
  • You can also do a height range modifier on the part from 0-3.6mm to set top/bottom layers to 0, and infill pattern, density and angle to suit your preference.
  • If you would like a different color for the hexes, you can do a color swap at layer 19 (3.8mm with 0.2mm layer heights).
  • SteveBuilds created a custom set of skirt options with modeled in hexes and multi-body parts, these can be found here (multi-body) and here (modeled hex meshes). To get a two-tone color look, perform a color change at 3.2mm (layer 16 at 0.2mm print heights).